Tuesday, December 30, 2008

The rediscovery of the flute in a flooded Maputo bar.

So on my last night in Mozabique we went to a bar. I use that term loosely. It was more of a large hut, that was incredibly flooded (much like the living room at my friends apartment but thats another story) with a small stage. After waiting an hour for a CApirinia (nice coktail, brazil style, google it), we convinced the guy to put an extra shot of sugar cane alcohol in it to compensate for our wait. Bad idea.

I'm not sure if it was the heat or the strength of the cocktail, but one drink certainly rendered me slightly intoxicated. Me and Julia were chatting to many Mozambiquan men, who, of course, are all famous musicians and have all been to London to 'Get to know big ben'

I then mention to one man (Don? I personally thought this name was surprisinlgy english) that I used to play the flute. So he proceeds to tell the guy leading the funk band that are playing on stage this, and lo and behold a flute was produced.

So I go up on stage, and according to popular consesus, rock this flute (I must point out it was a VERY nice flute, I can take no creidt for the sound).
I then proceed to step off the stage, and due to me forgetting the floor is underwater, fall flat on my butt and scrape up my hands. Classy. I think i made it look like part of the act.....

Friday, December 26, 2008

Christmas.

It's been really refreshing and interesting to spend christmas in a country that doesnt make a big deal out of it. Christmas in Mozambique was abolished for a few years after independence, as the church was something very much associated with the portuguese colonial rule. It was reinstated later as 'Family day' which is still the term used now, along with the greeting 'Good party'.

I know in England some of us get up in arms about supermarkets being open on Christmas day, but in Mozambique life truly goes on as normal.

People are still trying to sell fish on the market. severely disabled people are still directing traffic in hope of earning a few pence. Old ladies are gossiping on street corners, young men are hanging around dumpsters and children are on the streets trying to sell whatever they can.

Do they know its christmas? I dont think it really matters.....

But in the words of one incredibly jolly market trader with a santa hat on Christmas eve:

'I am closing my stall! I have babies! I must prepare them in their dresses, then I will take them to church tomorrow to THANK GOD! One year is a long time.'

Amen sista!!

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Mozambique to South Africa.....England to Wales it aint.

Ok so I went with my amazing friend Julia and her amazing parents to the coast in the south of mozambique for a pre christmas chillout a few days ago. Must legitamately be the best beach I have ever seen (if any ex team-brill-obrunis are reading this, i think it outdoes Safari Lodge! Shocker!). As I was reasonably close the the South African border I decided to ´pop over´to ZA for the day.
Apparently there was somewhere in this village that does border transfers so at 5am I got up and went in hunt of it.

I walked the 2 miles down to the village from our campsite (acompanied by a stray dog, who didnt inflict rabies on me) and tried to establish how to find the company that does transfers, or, how to get public transport to the border.

However, there is no public transport to the border. Which makes sense really, as its just a load of sandunes and you need a 4 wheel drive. I find out from some locals the place that does transfers is 'cafe do mar'. no one seems to know where this is. I cannot find it in the village, so walk along the beach (dog still in tow, playing with crabs)in search of wisdom. I ask some more locals a) how to cross the border and B) how I can exchange some dollars as I have no Mozambiquan currency left. The answer to these questions seems to be the same from everyone 'OH! YES! you could do it illegally!!!!' )obviously a cause for great excitement. I decline on both counts.
I ask some reasonably friendly south africans who recommend I try to go cross with border with the police. Er, No. I discover that Cafe Do Mar, is actually called 'Prawns', which is why i cant find it. and its closed til 10am.

I then stumble across a dive resort, and ask some worldly looking divers if they have any ideas. they point me in the direction of an awesome mozambiquan dreadlocked guy with a 4x4 pick up truck, who takes me across the ZA border (about 10 miles) and into the nearest town kwanGeese, in exchange for a bottle of water and a banana. we pick up mnay hitchikers, and get across the border easily.

I have great fun in the town, including making people fall about laughing when I asked them if there is a pay phone anywhere (Africa runs on mobile phones, there was about 70 mobile repair shops in the kwanGeese i went to, which maybe says something for the quality of the phones).

Mr Dreadlock (Raphael) said he would only be in town for one hour, so after 6 hours i decide its time to try and find another lift back.
I go back to the place that Raphael parked and see that his car is still there. Good old Africa Time.
He comes back about 30 mins later, and we proceed to buy some 'Juice' (Petrol). this takes 2 HOURS. No lies. We then drive back to the Mozi border, who proceed to charge me $30 to get back in. (Gah)


Oh and despite turning down offers of illegal money and immigration, I did indulge in smuggling a Mango from ZA to Mozi. (not allowed, apparently.) Its inside me now, having cut it open with a pen as nowhere sells cutlery.

Awesome.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

The other side of the equator...

Ok so mozambique is amazing. I didnt take to it at first, mainly because it was raining and I dont speak portuguese! Buti LOVE it now, it has to be the most beautiful and laid back place I have ever been to in my life. Such a contrast from west Africa too. Now the sun is shining, I have explored, can speak a little portuguese and am working with my friends momma on her various projects helping vunerable children. May bring one home. Watch this space.

Feli Natal Amigas!! xxxxxx

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

The world is/was a game of risk

BIt of a long one, bare with me!

For one of my first modules in my international relations degree I've been studying 'The making of the Global South', which largely covers issues regarding the G77, Colonialism and the slave trade. It's something I've always had an interest in so not that many of the atrocities of global history came as a large surprise, which I'm not sure is a good or bad thing.

Yesterday we were discussing the implications of colonialism on the third world, and whether it was a 'Good' thing. My opinion was that regardless of changes brought about by colonialism, it is intrinsically wrong to take something that does not belong to you in the first place. I honestly can't fathom why 'western' nations felt it was their right to take over other cultures, especially as at the time the western nations were under a largely christian ethos, and so surely would have been intelligent enough to realize that 'The earth is the Lords, an everything in it'(Psalm 24:1). obviously i understand this was all mixed up with the attempt to 'civilize' developing countries by 'converting' them to christianity, but with the colonizers acting in an entirely uncivilized manner, largely using the countries for their own economic gain.

Its like the world was a game of risk.. I'll have that country, and that one, and you can have that little one there, as you were too slow to get a good one.
Or maybe a more appropriate analogy is Monopoly. I'll have that country and that industry, build a hotel, make some money, try and make money off the other countries.
Then comes the problem of decolonization, you run out of money and realize you need to give the country back to its people, or if sticking with the monopoly analogy 'mortgage it' Sure, you may not continue to profit from it, but at least you get out without making a huge loss and overcomplicating your 'game plan'. Incidentally, this is pretty much what happened in the decolonization of Africa, India etc: the popular perception may be that former colonies were granted their independence because they pushed for it, it is far more likely it was due to the huge amount of debt the 'colonial masters' were in at the time, and so got out before they made too much of a financial loss.

Then what happens after that? If you look at any statistics, any photographs, speak to many citizens, it appears that it is probabale that a majority of former colonies are in much worse social, humanitarian and economic states than they were whilst they were ruled by the colonial masters: and more importantly, worse off (in accordance with the current climate...eg: before colonisation most 'developing' countries were economically and industially on a par with, or at least close to the countires that were to become their rulers.)

Therefore it would seem inarguable that colonisation retarded development in these countries.
Firstly by taking something that did not belong, motivated by greed, trying to run another culture and therefore not crediting the people of that county to know the culture better than they did. When Germany/Russia invaded poland (and of course I realise the differences in these situations) world war 2 began. Now I'm not saying that it would have been beneficial to start a world war over the takeover of african, asian and latin american nations, but shouldn't some of the other 'developed countries' have made a fuss? Probably not, because the colonization would probably be likely to assist them financially, and who would have taken on the UK/France/Spain back in the day? (I also find it interesting that Germany didn't successfully colonize anywhere outside of europe... but thats another story.)
Secondly, and this is another abstract analogy, when the colonies were decolonised they were left with little economic and political support. I'm not for one second saying that the people of these cultures were not capable of running things, but when you have relied on someone/thing for 50 years its a bit much to suddenly be cut loose. Broadly speaking, if you have children, you dont support them financially and offer them adviceetc until the age of 16, then when you run out of money/they push for a little more freedom leave them high and dry, with little financial advice, or help in general. You would take responsibility for the person/country you have moulded and try and help them to become successful independent people/nations.

Arguably, this is all water under the bridge. The effects of colonialism are still obvious: the few good ;legacies (some transport, education& democracy) the bad (poverty, reduced/obsolete manufacturing and trade, underdeveloped health care, corruption) and the mediocre (the use of european language in former colonies. However placing blame, no matter how much I may enjoy it is not really going to help. The only thing to do is look to the future, try and mend previous mistakes and ensure they never happen again.

Monday, December 08, 2008

The Common Ground

It that time of year again....The time I decide it might be god to verbalize myself on the world wide web, and stay logged into blogger, thus being able to comment on others posts! I've renamed the blog, if you were ever an 'avid' reader, you will know that my blog used to be called 'Let the Sun Shine'. However given my current location I have given up any hope of the sun materializing for at least another 9 months.

I found a couple of other blogs called The Common Ground, my title was inspired by Virginia Woolfes book, however there are other interesting ones with varying inspiration....


http://www.commongroundfellowship.com/plog/?page_id=3&cp=16 This one appears to be a unitarian (is that the word?) prayer blog...

http://www.findingcommonground.info This one seems to be a commentary on contentious church/state issues.

http://oncommonground.blogspot.com/ Not too sure on this one but the soup at the top looks nice!


Today, I went to Leeds market and bought cheap vegetables and am Just in the middle of watching the BBCs series of 'The British Empire In Color', very mind turmoiling. But overall life is peachy.